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Emigrant farmers market building a community


Market manager Joyce Johnson works hard to nurture the community that revolves around and within the tiny Emigrant farmers market, with an average of 10 vendors and a very big heart.

I wrote about this market during its 2011 season. In some ways it looks the same, but in other ways, it has grown.

"Were seeking to develop a new habitat for a community gathering," Joyce told me today. She deliberately named it the Peoples Market so anyone in the Paradise Valley could participate, even during the early part of the season when produce is still ripening. Shes considering extending the market during winter, wondering if vendors could use the local church hall.

"Were small now," Joyce conceded, "but big-hearted."

I enjoy visiting this market. It feels warm (even in the cold sun of mid-September) and welcoming. Vendors are happy to talk to you about their wares or even about things that interest them.

If you want to learn about yin and yang, ask the woman selling tiny cherry-size "yang" plums from her garden.


If you dont know anything about solar cooking, fireless cooking, or how alive water is, have a chat with Greg, who sells Sunovens and essential oils. The 3 pounds of potatoes in the Sunoven will be done by the time the market closes at 1 pm.


Eighty-year-old Richard will give you his recipe for Dutch oven potatoes if you prefer them cooked traditionally, plus hell add a plug for cultured vegetables, like homemade pickled beets and sauerkraut, that "do good work on your intestines." Handily, he has plenty of homegrown potatoes, beets, and cabbage for sale, along with squash and other good-looking vegetables.




James is a painter, but he comes to market to share the abundance from his garden. Today he had amazing heirloom tomatoes, garlic, kale, and lettuce.




But the prize was the tub of foot-long, tender Tyria cucumbers. Each seed costs $1.20, and so each cucumber sold for $4, but every bite is a delicacy. James handed out samples of dried cucumber, which was a treat in itself.



You can already see what an amazingly abundant market this is, and Ive only mentioned 4 vendors!

Today there were also jewelry, shawls, Native American artifacts, and Yankee Bobs cookies. You can read about Yankee Bob in my 2011 blog post about the market, but now he has extended his selection to include gluten-free and vegan items.


Oh, yes, and some fun wood items.


Stop in soon and get to know these friendly people.

Emigrant Peoples Market
Lawn of St. Johns Episcopal Church, across from Wildflour Bakery
Saturday, 10 am - 1 pm
June 14 - October 25 (weather permitting)
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Intro Aquaponics تكمله




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      5. ???? ?????? Irrigation Tuping   
      6. ???? ??? ( ??????? )   Water Heater ( optional )
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1-  ?????? ????? .. Fish tanks
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?????   : ???? Media-Based GrowBed  ( ????? ????? ?? ?????   ?????? )
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??????   : ????  ???????? ?????? Raft System
?????  : ????  ????? ?????? ???????NF  (Nutrient Film Technique) (???????? PVC???????? )
      ?????? :  ????  ??????? Towers…
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..............................................................................................................................
1. ???? Media-Based GrowBed  ( ????? ????? ?? ?????   ?????? )
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A Commercial Scale Aquaponic System Developed at the University of the Virgin Islands


A Commercial-Scale Aquaponic System Developed at the University of the Virgin Islands

James E. Rakocy*, Donald S Bailey, R. Charlie Shultz, and Jason J. Danaher

Agricultural Experiment Station
University of the Virgin Islands
RR 1, Box 10,000, Kingshill, VI 00850 U.S.
jrakocy@uvi.edu 

Abstract

Aquaponics is the combined culture of fish and plants in recirculating systems.  Nutrients generated by the fish, either by direct excretion or microbial breakdown of organic wastes, are absorbed by plants cultured hydroponically.  Fish provide most of the nutrients required for plant nutrition. As the aquaculture effluent flows through the hydroponic component of the recirculating system, fish waste metabolites are removed by nitrification and direct uptake by plants, thereby treating the water, which flows back to the fish rearing component for reuse.

The University of the Virgin Islands Aquaculture Program has developed a commercial-scale aquaponic system.  The system consists of four fish rearing tanks (7.8 m3 each, water volume), two cylindro-conical clarifiers (3.8 m3 each), four filter tanks (0.7 m3 each), one degassing tank (0.7 m3), six hydroponic tanks (11.3 m3 each, 214 m2 of plant growing area), one sump (0.6 m3), and one base addition tank (0.2 m3).  The system contains 110 m3 of water and occupies a land area of 0.05 ha.  Major inputs are fish feed, water (1.5% of system volume daily on average), electricity (2.21 kW), base [Ca(OH)2 and KOH] and supplemental nutrients (Ca, K, Fe).  The system can produce nearly 5 mt of tilapia along with 1400 cases (24-30 heads per case) of leaf lettuce or 5 mt of basil or a variety of other crops.  

The UVI system represents an appropriate or intermediate technology that can be applied outdoors under suitable growing conditions or in an environmentally controlled greenhouse.  The system conserves and reuses water, recycles nutrients and requires very little land.  The system can be used on a subsistence level or commercial scale.  Production is continuous and sustainable.  The system is simple, reliable and robust. The UVI aquaponic system does require a relatively high capital investment, moderate energy inputs and skilled management, though management is easy if production guidelines are followed.

Introduction

Aquaponics is the combined culture of fish and plants in recirculating systems.  Nutrients, which are excreted directly by the fish or generated by the microbial breakdown of organic wastes, are absorbed by plants cultured hydroponically (without soil).  Fish feed provides most of the nutrients required for plant growth.  As the aquaculture effluent flows through the hydroponic component of the recirculating system, fish waste metabolites are removed by nitrification and direct uptake by the plants, thereby treating the water, which flows back to the fish-rearing component for reuse.

Aquaponics has several advantages over other recirculating aquaculture systems and hydroponic systems that use inorganic nutrient solutions.  The hydroponic component serves as a biofilter, and therefore a separate biofilter is not needed as in other recirculating systems.  Aquaponic systems have the only biofilter that generates income, which is obtained from the sale of hydroponic produce such as vegetables, herbs and flowers.  In the UVI system, which employs raft hydroponics, only calcium, potassium and iron are supplemented.  The nutrients provided by the fish would normally be discharged and could contribute to pollution.  Removal of nutrients by plants prolongs water use and minimizes discharge.  Aquaponic systems require less water quality monitoring than individual recirculating systems for fish or hydroponic plant production.  Aquaponics increases profit potential due to free nutrients for plants, lower water requirements, elimination of a separate biofilter, less water quality monitoring and shared costs for operation and infrastructure.

Design Evolution and Operation

Aquaponic research at UVI began with six replicated systems that consisted of a rearing tank (12.8 m3), a cylindro-conical clarifier (1.9 m3), two hydroponic tanks (13.8 m2) and a sump (1.4 m3) (Rakocy 1997).  The hydroponic tanks (6.1 m long by 1.22 m wide by 28 cm deep) were initially filled with gravel supported by wire mesh above a false bottom (7.6 cm).  The gravel bed, which served as a biofilter, was alternately flooded with culture water and drained. Due to the difficulty of working with gravel, the gravel was removed and a raft system, consisting of floating sheets (2.44 m long x 1.22 m wide x 3.8 cm thick) of polystyrene, was installed.  A rotating biological contactor (RBC) was then used for nitrification.  Effluent from the clarifier was split into two flows, one going to the hydroponic tanks and the other to the RBC.  These flows merged in the sump, from which the treated water was pumped back to the rearing tank.

The rearing tank in this design proved to be too large relative to the plant growing surface area of the hydroponic tanks, or, conversely, the hydroponic tanks were too small relative to the size of the rearing tank.  When the rearing tank was stocked with Nile tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) at commercial rates, nutrients rapidly accumulated to levels that exceeded the recommended upper limits for hydroponic nutrient solutions [2,000 mg/L as total dissolved solids (TDS)] (Rakocy et al. 1993).  Using Bibb lettuce, the optimum ratio between the fish feeding rate and plant growing area was determined (Rakocy 1989).  At this ratio (57 g of feed/m2 of plant growing area/day) the nutrient accumulation rate decreased and the hydroponic tanks were capable of providing sufficient nitrification.  Therefore, the RBCs were removed and the fish stocking rates were reduced to levels that allowed feed to be administered near the optimum rate for good plant growth.

The experimental system has been scaled up three times.  In the first scale-up, the length of each hydroponic tank was increased from 6.1 m to 29.6 m.  The optimum design ratio was used to allow the rearing tank to be stocked with tilapia at commercial levels (for a diffused aeration system) without excessive nutrient accumulation.  In the second scale-up, the number of hydroponic tanks (29.6 m in length) was increased to six; the number  of fish rearing tanks was increased to four (each with a water volume of 4.4 m3); the  number of clarifiers was increased to two; four filter tanks (0.7 m3 each) were added and  the sump was reduced to 0.6 m3.  This production unit, commercial aquaponics 1 (CA1), represented a realistic commercial scale, although there are many possible size options and tank configurations.  The final scale-up, commercial aquaponics 2 (CA2), involved the enlargement of the four fish rearing tanks (each with a water volume of 7.8 m3) and the two clarifiers (each with a water volume of 3.8 m3) and the addition of a 0.7-m3 degassing tank (Figure 1). The commercial-scale units could be configured to occupy as little as 0.05 ha of land.

The rearing tanks and water treatment tanks were situated under an opaque canopy, which inhibited algae growth, lowered water temperature, which is beneficial for hydroponic plant production, and created more natural lighting conditions for the fish.

The system used multiple fish rearing tanks to simplify stock management.  Tilapia production was staggered in four rearing tanks so that one rearing tank was harvested every 6 weeks.  The fish were not moved during their 24-week growout cycle.  In a 2.5-year production trial in CA 1 using sex-reversed Red tilapia, annual production was 3,096 kg, based on the last 11 harvests out of 19 harvests (Rakocy et al. 1997).  Fingerlings, stocked at 182 fish/m3, grew at an average rate of 2.85 g/day to a size of 487 g.  The final biomass averaged 81.1 kg/m3.  This was equivalent to annual production of 175.7 kg/m3 of rearing tank space.  The average feed conversion and survival were 1.76 and 91.6%

The stocking density appeared to be too high for maximum growth and efficient feed conversion. Midway through each production cycle, ad libitum feeding leveled off at approximately 5 kg per rearing tank.  As the fish grew in the last half of the production cycle, feed consumption did not increase.  Therefore more of the feed was used for maintenance and less was used for growth, leading to a relatively high feed conversion ratio for 487-g fish. In CA2 the stocking rate for red tilapia has been lowered by 15% to 154 fish/ m3.  The growth of Niletilapia was evaluated at a stocking rate of 77 fish/m3.  With larger rearing tanks and higher growth rates, it was anticipated that CA2 could produce 5 mt of tilapia annually.

Based on the results of 20 harvests (four for Red tilapia and 16 for Nile tilapia) with the CA2 system, Red tilapia grew to an average of 512.5 g (Rakocy et al. 2004a).  The West Indian market prefers a colorful whole fish that is served with its head on.  At this density production averaged 70.7 kg/m3, and the growth rate averaged 2.69 g/day.  Nile tilapia averaged 813.8 g, a preferable size for the fillet market.  At this density production averaged 61.5 kg/m3, and the growth rate averaged 4.40 g/day.  The stocking rates appeared to be nearly optimal for the desired product size.  Nile tilapia attained a higher survival rate (98.3%) and a lower feed conversion ratio (1.7) than Red tilapia (89.9% and 1.8, respectively).  Projected annual production was 4.16 mt for Nile tilapia and 4.78 mt for Red tilapia.   

Tank Dimensions
Pipe Sizes
Rearing tanks: Diameter: 3 m, Height: 1.2 m, Water volume: 7,800 L
Clarifiers:  Diameter: 1.8, Height of cylinder: 1.2 m, Depth of cone: 1.1 m, Slope: 45º, Water volume: 3,785 L
Filter and degassing tanks: Length: 1.8 m, Width: 0.76 m, Depth: 0.61 m, Water volume: 700 L
Hydroponic tanks: Length: 30.5 m, Width: 1.2 m, Depth: 41 cm, Water volume: 11,356 L
Sump: Diameter: 1.2 m, Height: 0.9 m, Water volume: 606 L
Base addition tank:  Diameter: 0.6 m, Height: 0.9 m, Water volume: 189 L
Total system water volume: 111,196 L
Flow rate: 378 L/min, Pump: 0.37 kW Blowers: 1.1 kW (fish) and 0.74 kW (plants)
Total land area: 0.05 ha.
Pump to rearing tanks: 7.6 cm
Rearing tanks to clarifier: 10 cm
Clarifiers to filter tanks: 10 cm
Between filter tanks: 15 cm
Filter tank to degassing tank: 10 cm
Degassing to hydroponic tanks: 15 cm
Between hydroponic tanks: 15 cm
Hydroponic tanks to sump: 15 cm
Sump to pump: 7.6 cm
Pipe to base addition tank: 1.9 cm
Base addition tank to sump: 3.2 cm
Figure 1. Current design of the UVI commercial aquaponic system (CA2).

To achieve production of 5 mt, more research is needed on types of feed (e.g., higher protein levels) and the delivery of the feed.  To achieve an annual harvest of 5 mt for Nile tilapia, the average harvest weight must be 978 g, an increase of 164 g over the current harvest weight.  In addition to better feed and feed delivery, it may be necessary to stock larger fingerlings or increase the stocking rate slightly. 

Production trials with the CA1 system employed two methods of ad libitum feeding.  A demand feeder, used initially, was replaced by belt feeders, utilizing variable quantities of feed adjusted to meet the demand.  Neither method proved to be entirely satisfactory.  With demand feeders, high winds would shake the feeder, which then dispensed too much feed, or clumps of feed would block the funnel opening of the demand feeder, which then delivered too little feed.  The belt feeders periodically failed, not delivering any of the daily feed ration.  Both devices were expensive and required support structures. In CA2 the fish were fed ad libitum by manual feeding three times daily, which proved to be much more satisfactory.

In a CA1 production trial, DO levels were maintained at a mean of 6.2 mg/L by high DO in the incoming water and by diffused aeration with air delivered through 10 air stones (22.9 cm x 3.8 cm x 3.8 cm) around the perimeter of the tank.  In the last 12 weeks of the growout period, a 40-watt vertical lift pump was placed in the center of the tank for additional aeration.  The pump pushed the floating feed to the perimeter of the tank and some feed pellets were splashed out of the tank during initial feeding frenzies. Vigorous aeration vented carbon dioxide gas into the atmosphere and prevented its buildup. A high water exchange rate quickly removed suspended solids and toxic waste metabolites (ammonia and nitrite) from the rearing tank.  A 0.74-kW in-line pump moved water at an average rate of 378 L/min from the sump to the rearing tanks (mean retention time, 0.8 h).   Values of ammonia-nitrogen and nitrite-nitrogen in the rearing tanks averaged 1.47 and 0.52 mg/L, respectively.  A pH of 7.2 was maintained by frequently adding equal amounts of calcium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.  Total alkalinity averaged 56.5 mg/L as calcium carbonate.

In CA2 the vertical lift pump was eliminated, and the number of air stones around the rearing tank perimeter was increased to 22 (15.2 cm x 3.8 cm x 3.8 cm).  The air stones pushed feed to the center of the tank and no feed was lost due to feeding frenzy splashing. With larger water volumes, the retention time increased to an average of 1.37 hours. A 1.1 kW blower provided sufficient aeration for the fish rearing tanks while a 0.74 kW blower was used for the hydroponic tanks.   

Effluent from the fish rearing tanks flowed into two 1.9-m3clarifiers in the CA1 production trial.  Separate drains from two of the rearing tanks were connected to each clarifier [see Rakocy (1997) for a detailed description].  The clarifiers removed settleable  solids, but the amount of solids collected was not as great with the 9.5-minute retention time in the production trial as it had been in previous trials with longer retention times (>20 minutes).  Therefore, in CA2 the clarifiers were increased in size to 3.8 m3 and the retention time increased to 19 minutes.  The bottom slope of the new clarifiers was 45º as compared to 60º slopes in the 1.9-m3clarifiers.  Sludge was removed from the clarifiers three times daily.

Settleable solids in the clarifiers adhered to the sides of the cones and did not slide to the bottom where they could be removed by opening the drain line. It was necessary to stock about 20 male tilapia in the each clarifier. They were not fed. As these fish fed on organisms growing on the clarifier walls, solids rolled to the cone bottom and were easily removed by opening the drain line. The tilapia also swam into the rearing tank drain lines and kept them free of biofouling organisms. Tilapia in the clarifiers grew rapidly and needed to be replaced every 12 weeks with smaller (~ 50 g) fingerlings. If they became too large, their swimming activity stirred up the settled solids, which was counterproductive to clarification.  


Suspended solids levels, which decline slightly on passage through the clarifier, were reduced further before the effluent entered the hydroponic tanks.   Excessive solids were detrimental to plant growth.  Solids adhered to plant roots, created anaerobic conditions and blocked nutrient uptake.  Two filter tanks in series, each with a volume of 0.7 m3 and filled with orchard netting (1.9 cm mesh), received effluent from the clarifier and removed considerable amounts of suspended solids, which adhered to the orchard netting.  In the CA1 production trial, total suspended solids averaged 9.0 mg/L in the rearing tanks, 8.2 mg/L in the effluent from the clarifiers (a 9% reduction) and 4.5 mg/L in the effluent from the filter tanks (a 45% reduction).  The filter tanks were drained and the orchard netting was washed with a high-pressure sprayer once or twice per week.  Solids from the filter tanks and clarifiers were discharged through drain lines into two 16-m3, lined ponds, which were continuously aerated using air stones.  As one pond was being filled over a 2 to 4-week period, water from the other pond was used to irrigate and fertilize field crops.

A separate study showed that of the total amount of solids removed from the system the clarifiers removed approximately 50% (primarily settleable solids) while the filter tanks removed the remaining 50% (primarily suspended solids).

The relatively slow removal of solids from the system (three times daily from the clarifiers and 1-2 times weekly from the filter tanks) was an important design feature.  While solids remained in the system, they were mineralized.  The generation of dissolved inorganic nutrients promoted vigorous plant growth.  In addition, filter-tank solids created anaerobic zones where denitrification occurred.  As water flowed through the accumulated organic matter on the orchard netting, nitrate ions were reduced to nitrogen gas.  Nitrate was the predominant nutrient in the aquaponic systems.  High nitrate levels promoted vegetative growth but inhibited fruiting.  With fruiting plants such as tomatoes, low nitrate concentrations maximized fruit production.  Nitrate levels were controlled by regulating the cleaning frequency of the filter tanks.  If the filter tanks were cleaned twice per week, there was less solids accumulation, less denitrification and higher nitrate levels.  If the filter tanks were cleaned once per week, there was more solids accumulation, more denitrification and lower nitrate levels.

Alkalinity is produced during denitrification and by plants which excrete alkaline ions though their roots. There were periods when the pH did not decline for weeks at a time, which was detrimental to plant growth since calcium and potassium could not be supplemented through the addition of base. To prevent periods of stable pH, the filter tanks were cleaned more frequently (twice per week) and any accumulation of solids on the bottom of the hydroponic tanks, which could be anaerobic, were removed.    

Organic decomposition in the filter tanks produced carbon dioxide, methane, hydrogen sulfide, nitrogen and other gases.  If filter-tank effluent entered the hydroponic tanks directly, it retarded the growth of plants near the inlet.  Therefore, a 0.7-m3 degassing tank was added to the CA2 system.  Filter-tank effluent entered the degassing tank and was vigorously aerated, venting potentially harmful gasses into the atmosphere.  Degassing-tank effluent was split into three equal portions, each of which passed through a set of two hydroponic tanks.  In each set of tanks, water flowed 59.2 m before returning to the sump and being pumped back to the fish rearing tanks.  

The hydroponic tanks retained the fish culture water for an average of three hours before it returned to the fish rearing tanks.  Each set of hydroponic tanks contained 48 air stones (7.6 cm x 2.5 cm x 2.5 cm), located 1.22 m apart along the central axis of the tank, which re-aerated and mixed the water, exposing it to a film of nitrifying bacteria that grew on the tank surface areas, especially the underside of the polystyrene sheets.  In the CA1 production trial, DO increased from 4.0 to 6.9 mg/L on passage through the hydroponic tanks (Rakocy et al. 1997).  Through direct nutrient uptake by plants or bacterial oxidation, Gloger et al. (1995) found that the UVI raft hydroponic tanks removed an average of 0.56 g of total ammonia-nitrogen, 0.62 g of nitrite-nitrogen, 30.29 g of chemical oxygen demand, 0.83 g of total nitrogen and 0.17 g of total phosphorous per m2 of plant growing area per day using romaine lettuce.  The maximum sustainable wastewater treatment capacity of raft hydroponics was found to be equivalent to a feeding rate of 180 g/m2 of plant growing area/day. Therefore raft hydroponics exhibited excess treatment capacity.

The optimum feeding rate ratio of 57 g of feed/m2of plant growing area/day, needed to reduce nutrient accumulation, was determined using the initial small-scale systems. Nutrient levels increased but at a lower rate, and there was no filter tank. As the system design evolved to the final commercial size (CA2), up to 5,600 L of water were dumped weekly (5% of the system water volume) during the filter tank cleaning process, which resulted in nutrient concentrations remaining in a steady state at feeding rate ratios of 60 to 100 g/m2/day. This range of feeding rate ratios was well within the wastewater treatment capacity of 180 g/m2/day. Therefore, after an initial acclimation period of one month, it was not necessary to monitor ammonia or nitrite values in the commercial-scale system provided that the film on nitrifying bacteria on the underside of the rafts remained intact.  

Several materials were used to construct the hydroponic tanks.  The best construction materials consisted of poured concrete walls (40 cm high and 10 cm wide) and a 23-mil high-density polyethylene tank liner.  The black liners used for CA1 absorbed considerable heat along the top of the tank walls.  For CA2 the portion of the liners above the water level was painted white to reflect heat. Subsequently UV-resistant, white liners were used.  The polystyrene sheets were painted white with a potable grade latex paint to reflect heat and prevent the deterioration that results if it is exposed to direct sunlight. 

There were several advantages to raft culture. There was no limitation on tank size.  Rafts provided maximum exposure of the roots to the culture water and avoided clogging.  The sheets shielded the water from direct sunlight and maintained lower than ambient water temperatures, which was beneficial to plant growth.  A disruption in pumping did not affect the plant’s water supply.  The sheets were easily moved along the channel to a harvesting point, where they were lifted out of the water and placed on supports at an elevation that was comfortable for workers. 

A disadvantage of raft culture was that the plant roots were vulnerable to damage caused by zooplankton, snails, leeches and other aquatic organisms.  Biological methods have been successful in controlling these invasive organisms.  Ornamental fish, particularly tetras (Gymnocorymbus ternetzi), were effective in controlling zooplankton, and red ear sunfish (shellcrackers, Lepomis microlophus) were effective in controlling snails. Shellcrackers also prey on leeches.

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Billboard Tarps are Not a Good Deal

A warning about these tarps
The vinyl is chemically unstable and unhealthy.
My used tarp leaked,  but Billboards.com was kind enough to send a repair kit at my request,
and returned all of my money as well as the cost of shipping when that did not work. 

Each of the circles and squares drawn on this tarp indicate a hole!
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Skirting Disaster A Series of Unfortunate Events

Really cold weather hasnt been much of a challenge until last night when my son-in-law reported that there was a fire in the greenhouse. This occurred because the propane tank we used had been overfilled at the gas station where we take our tanks to be replenished. The empty tanks were refilled to a proper level, but the partially empty tank received more than it could hold and still function properly. At any rate, instead of neatly heating the radiant area there were flames coming out of the top of the attachment that screws onto propane tank. The situation was caught before extensive damage occurred. One of the rain gutters used in the float system was slightly deformed by the heat and some of the primroses were wilted but not scorched. We have a back-up system of a small barbeque brazier, the tabletop kind that is about 18" in diameter, which burns charcoal briquets. We used it last night when the temperature dipped into the teens and it kept the greenhouse from a hard freeze, even though the tomato plants have likely met their end. The water in the system didnt freeze. One of my sons keeps the heater or the brazier going as needed and it is he who responded to the fire and diagnosed the cause. Today is cold, under 20 degrees until after 10 AM. He will be in the greenhouse burning off the extra propane while doing various things to the system. Less than a week ago we woke after a late night and family party and discovered that there were only three inches of water in the fish tank. Eeeeeek!. Fortunately I store extra water in 50 gallon barrels, partially as a heat reservoir but also as an at need source of water that has sat long enough to degas the chlorine. I immediately added the water to the fish tank. Later we added additional water with a hose once the faucet and the hose were thawed enough to use. I add the chlorinated water through the plant beds and so far that seems to moderate the chemistry enough before it reaches the fish tank that the fish havent visibly suffered. Apparently whatever caused the loss of water was fixed in the process of messing around. So far we havent had to add more water once the normal levels were restored and the system was up and running, draining and filling through the bell syphons. At this point mint, strawberry plants, parsley, kale and primroses are standing up to the stress of winter cold and we havent lost a significant amount of fish, although I suspect that floaters are not a realistic indication of fish loss. There are signs that the larger trout, some of which are longer than 6 inches at this point, are predating the smaller trout. This is just as well since it keeps down the nitrogen from too many fish.
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Expensive Chicken Feed Frozen Fish

Winter of 2012-13 in Utah set records for cold. Particularly in January when the temperature went below zero with sad regularity. For various family reasons I spent all of January in the east, ranging from Florida to Puerto Rico to New York City. I experienced some cold in Manhattan but not the hard, killing freeze that settled over Utah. My son tried valiantly to keep the greenhouse running. The propane heater and charcoal brazier proved inadequate. Even burning hardwood in the chimenea couldnt cut the cold entirely, then the greenhouse door froze shut. A brief spell of temperatures above freezing allowed my son to view the damage. A 140 gallon block of ice with fish suspended in it filled the fish tank. Most of the primrose plants survived and we now see blooms on some of them. The mint is shooting out green leaves. My enterprising son, unwilling to deal with a quantity of dead fish as spring approached, found a novel way to use the frozen fish and water in the fish tank. he chipped out the fishy ice and let the three hens we keep for eggs work their will with it. The chickens, omniverous eaters that they are, enjoyed the frozen fish and their eggs likely provided a lot of omega 3 fatty acids. The previous winter I had insulated my water pipes and taped electrical warming lines along them but I rearranged the plumbing last fall and made the mistake of failing to restore the insulating tubes and the warming lines that kept the system from freezing last year. In review, I purchased too many fingerling trout. As they grew larger, they overstressed the system. At least they provided a tasty treat for the chickens. This winter wasnt a complete disaster, some of the plants survived. None of the more important parts of the system failed. We restored the flood and drain system and soon I will plant the grow beds with various less hardy plants as spring comes on. We plan to add some snails to the fish tank and I will gradually add a few fish, either trout or gold fish. I dont plan to disturb the ecology of the various growing systems which have been through two growth seasons so far. It seems wise to augment the plants with a bit of fertilizer along with the chelated iron I use whatever number of fish I have and not try to keep a lot of fish. I engage in aquaponics more for plants than fish as well as the water storage/saving that is part of the system.
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Peeling a Pomegranate

Im in the planning stages of establishing a small fruit tree orchard.  Any advise would be welcomed.  One of the trees I most wish to plant is pomegranate.  Many people dont like pomegranate because they are so much trouble to eat.  If done incorectly they will stain your counter and clothing, but there is a method which this lady passes on in this video.

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Purchasing or Designing a Property

Permaculture



  • 3 Things you MUST consider when purchasing or designing a property to survive the coming crises.

  • PLUS Geoff Lawton’s “Property Purchase Checklist” PDF download. 

This example might help make permaculture design even easier to understand.
http://permaculturenews.org/2013/09/18/the-permaculture-design-process-an-example/ 
 


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    Hi tech crown

    Technology has made the dentists office an interesting place to hang out. Well, I can think of other places Id rather be, but as long as you have to be there . . .

    Today I had to have a crown put on to replace the inlay that fell out again and broke off a bit of tooth on the way out. You might recall my initial visit to the dentist.

    In the photo above is the computer imagery of the designed crown. The dentist took infrared photos of what was left of my tooth (which involved much internal swearing on his part no doubt; "patient" does not describe my attitude in the dentist chair), then manipulated the image with Sirona software. Its a magical process.

    His thoughtful assistant showed me how the image becomes a real-life bit of enamel to put in my mouth.

    The raw material is composed of different sizes and colors of enamel, to [hopefully] match the other teeth in your mouth.

    The perfect piece is placed in a machine (below, right) that carves the enamel to the computer specifications.

    The result is a tiny purple piece of tooth; the minuscule handle (left side) facilitates handling of this wee thing.

    The enamel is painted much like pottery, with a dab placed in the middle groove to make the crown look more tooth-like. Here the dentist (left) looks on.

    The crown is placed in a miniature kiln.

    After about 20 minutes, it is finished but still hot. So it is placed on another, cooler surface (here, a mug) to await placement in the mouth.

    Within 2 hours of arriving at the dentists office, I was driving off with a functional tooth. Amazing.

    And thus this is another reminder to take care of your teeth so you can enjoy Montanas bounty. If you need a dentist in south central Montana, I can recommend a good one.
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    Lavender and a French bakery

    The lavender farm


    Im crazy about lavender, but I dont get to see much of it in eastern Montana. So one of my first stops when I arrived for my visit in the Seattle area was the Woodinville Lavender farm.

    Ive been following them on Facebook and reading about the lavender ice cream bars, the calls for volunteers to help cut lavender, and various activities that make me smell lavender all the way over in Montana. Its a sweet smell, but one better savored near an actual lavender plant.

    Unfortunately for me, September is past the lavender season, but I enjoyed walking in the rain among the trimmed plants. They are pretty even after they lose their blossoms.


    And of course, this being Western Washington, there were a few plants that did still bloom.


    Inside the shop is where you find the full fragrance of lavender. You can also buy dried buds, essential oil, cookbooks and how-to books on growing lavender, and of course the longed-for lavender ice cream bars.

    If youre in the area, be sure to stop in!

    The French bakery


    Down the road is The Vineyard, a fully stocked French bakery, although you might have to slow down to see it. Its nestled among tractors, which I didnt find odd at all since I see big machinery everywhere in Montana.

    Marilyn, my hostess, says her husband cannot see the bakery. He has a kind of male blindness that only allows him to focus on the tractors. So just a warning: do not send a man to pick up the brioche for your fancy French dinner. He might come home with farm equipment instead.

    And anyway, why wouldnt you go yourself? The brioche is fantastic, making outstanding toast and French toast. I found tasty Opera Cake, which you just dont see all that often. (Note that I have included a link to a recipe. But having made this myself, I can only warn that it is far easier to buy the cake and with much better-looking results.) Coconut cream tarts, cookies, eclairs . . . all the usual goodies in delightful display and good taste.


     
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    A Handbook For Aquaponics

    Gardening with aquaponics is a passion for me.  For almost 2 years Ive visited my fish first thing in the morning, and its the last thing I do before bed.  I enjoy the science and systems that sustain this marvelous symbiotic garden with biological interactions that continue to flourish and amaze me.

    Ill warn you that a lot of what you will find on the internet is hype and rubbish.  For example growing lettuce at four times the normal yield is just not going to happen. Aquaponics is not going to feed the world, and its not as easy as many make it look, and unless you are a top notch salesman you will not grow rich selling produce, and fish or aquaponic systems. Beware of people selling anything related to aquaponics. There are no secrets in aquaponics.

    Why do you want to grow with aquaponics?  Chances are you either want to
    1. save money on food,
    2. avoid kneeling,
    3. reduce your water consumption,
    4. be sure you are eating healthy organic food,
    5. help reduce the depletion of fossil fuel and lower the carbon foot print of your existence.


    Maybe its all of these, but "traditional aquaponics" is not a sustainable method. To be fair, I cant think of any method of farming that provides animal protein in a sustainable fashion, especially if we are not able to allow the animal to free roam and forage for their own food. After you add up all the energy involved with aquaponics it still uses more energy to pump water than the caloric energy it grows. But aquaponics is a move in the right direction, and it does save transportation energy. In ideal locations aquaponics could produce 30,000 lbs of fish per acre per year compared to less than 100 lbs for cattle, but dont forget the fossil fuel required to make that happen. For more on that [CLICK HERE].

    This is why I strive to design low energy systems, and grow with the seasons. These integrated systems qualify as Permaculture, and I will show you how to accomplish every one of the goal on that list! My first rule is dont fight Mother Nature. She can be generous if you work with her.

    Traditional aquaponics may never grow enough food to get back what you invest, but you will save a lot of water, know first hand how safe your food is, and if you design it with raised beds or vertical towers you will not have to get down on your knees.

    Growing a garden is a challenge, at least it was to me. Aquaponics is not any easier, and often times more difficult than soil based gardening. I dont consider myself an expert, just experienced. I hope I can help you get you off to a good start because it can provide a great deal of enjoyment.

    Here is a list of topics I will cover

    Sustainability
    Water Quality
    Carbonates, pH, water chemistry and nutrients
    Iron
    Media beds
    Media
    Radial Filters
    Cycling & Nitrification
    The System Build
        Concrete
        Wood Tanks
        International Bulk Containers (IBC)
        Drums
        Bell Siphons
        Timed Fill and Drain
        Old School Fill & Drain
        Air Pumps
        Airlift Pumps
        Electric Pumps
    CHOP 1 vs CHOP 2
    Level Systems
    Flow Rate


    Fish
        Compassionate Killing of Fish
         Fish Food
        Breeding Fish
    Level Systems
    Media Beds
        Wicking beds
        Earthan Beds
    Wicking Pots
    Deep Water Culture (DWC)
    NFT (Nutrient Film Technech)
    Vertical Towers 
    Bioponics
    Plants
    Green Houses
        Rocket Mass Stoves
        Evaporative Coolers
        Floors
        Pipe sizes
        Insulation
        Lights
        Heating
    Starting from Seeds
    Keep a Log
    Sea Salt
    Pest Control
    Site & Experts to follow





    I want to talk about the many questions I had as a newbie aquapon, and discuss some brilliant ways to improve traditional aquaponics.

    Questions will always come up when designing your first system. I will attempt to remember what mine were, and anticipate what yours are too. I also want to mention an alternative to aquaponics with fish. Bioponics is aquaponics without fish. It uses other sources of nitrogen there by avoiding many problems and expenses involved with raising fish. If you do not eat a lot of fish I encourage you to go this route.

    Water Quality
    There are often concerns about detritus in the media and water. Let me first say, worms in all of your media beds are very beneficial whether it be Earthan, Wicking, or LECA (Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate). They consume dead roots, uneaten food, and with the help of bacteria in their guts, make minerals available to the plants through a process called chelation. They help keep the media clear of excess gunk, and feed the plants in the process. Worms (Eisenia Foetida – the Red Wiggler, Californian red worm) to be exact should be in your system. You can even feed them to your fish.

    Carbonates are bad for beginning systems because they remove a level of control for beginning systems (i.e. before your nitrification efficiency is up). Your related acidification is really weak and carbonates can overwhelm the process, leading to chronically high pH. (i.e. 8+) which limits nutrient availability and makes it difficult to stabilize your system where it should be (below 7 for commercial systems). - Nate Storey (Bright Agrotech)

    pH and water chemistry and nutrients:
    If the pH gets too high you will need to lower with acid.  Buffing from the carbonates in your grow media, and local water supply may make the pH difficult to adjust.
    http://www.chemguide.co.uk/physical/acidbaseeqia/phcurves.html
    At the point at where the buffer is overcome any further amount of acid will cause a drastic pH change
    GO SLOW.  As you add Hydrochloric acid the pH will drop, and then bounce back.  Dont get frustrated and dump extra in.  You will reach a point where it kicks in and then a little goes a long way. It is possible to kill your nitrifying bacteria if you go too low.
    Ive never had a problem with low pH, but the same applies.  Add a threshold level of HCl (Hydrochloric Acid) or KOH (Potassium Hydroxide) and then test pH a day later and adjust with a smaller adjustment dose.  This is actually safer than calculating because it allows other variables to impact pH over the course of 24 hrs

    Iron is almost always lacking in aquaponic systems.  The form of iron is very important. The three common chelated forms (iron-EDDHA, DTPA and EDTA) differ in their ability to keep iron soluble and available to plants as the pH increases. Between a pH of 4.0 to 5.5, any form of iron will work (including iron sulfate) at supplying iron to the plant. However, as the pH increases above 7.0, only the iron from Fe-EDDHA will have high solubility.
    Iron-EDDHA 4 >< 9 pH
    Iron-DTPA 4 >< 6.5 pH
    Iron-EDTA 4 >< 5.5 pH
    Research has shown that the ranking of iron forms from most effective to least effective at supplying iron at high media pH is Fe-EDDHA Iron-DTPA > Iron-EDTA > Iron sulfate. If iron is applied in a form that is not soluble because of high media pH, then most of the nutrient will not be available to plants until media pH is lowered.
    In general the best products will say EDDHA (Sequestrene 138) because they work over the widest range of pH. Sequestrene 330 is ETPA and it is more affordable. Use Sequestrene 138 only if your media is alkaline and calcareous If your soil/media is very acidic I would still use ETPA Sequestrene 330 rather than EDTA. ETPA (Sequestrene 330) is the best all around iron to buy if your are maintaining your system between 6.2 and 6.5. Iron Sulfate can be used as a foliar application in aquaponics, and may not be terribly detrimental to your fish, but I would not use it when there are better choices.
    Sequestrene is what I use and its widely available on the internet, but others are good too. Sequestrene 138 may has been reported to turn the water red but Ive only used 330 so I dont know for sure if that is true or how much of a problem it is.


    Media beds clean, and filter the water, but that is not their primary purpose.  In fact even a bio-ponic system (aquaponic system without fish)  will accumulate muck in the media.  To a certain extent that is what you want for good nitrification and as your system matures it will continue to improve.  What you dont want is food and poo clogging the media, and creating anaerobic spots.  Therefore we remove the detritus from the water with a radial filter.  The main purpose of media is to provide nitrification, and as luck would have it, media beds provide a place to grow plants.  People from the aquaculture world often miss this last point and try to incorporate a very efficient Fluidized Biological Filters as well. 
    The primary focus of aquaponics is plant growth and fluidized filters also known as moving bed filters create no space for plants, but there are situations where they may be useful.  For example you may wish to have more fish and have no room for more garden beds.

    Media provides filtration, a place for plants and most importantly nitrification.


    BSA (Biological Surface Area) depends upon the SSA (Specific Surface Area) of the media.  The higher the BSA the better because the bacteria which provides nitrification likes to grow on surfaces.  Most IBC systems average about 25 ft2 surface area per pound of fish.  100 or more sq ft per pound would be really great for the fish, but somewhere in this range is good.

    The surface area of the media where the bacteria grow increases with porous media.  Kaldness is used in aquariums because it has been designed to provide a very high SSA of about  244 ft2/ft3, while providing good flow.  Flow is the crux, because even though media such as sand has a high SSA of about 270 ft2/ft3. and a void ratio of about 40% the flow rate is too slow.

    There is a wide range of media with good flow and high SSA,  but some to stay away from are any rock that will change the pH such as marble or lime stone and GrowStones in apquaponic systems because they are made of glass which will leach into the fish tank and harm your fish.  They would be great in a bioponic system though.

    The best products are LECA (Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate),  Expanded Shale or Bio-Char if you are able to afford, and obtain them.  For the rest of us Lava Rock is my preference because it is cheap, porous, not too heavy and contain a lot of minerals for the plants. Microporous solids called zeolites form in volcanic rocks.  According to Russel Water Gardens - Lava Rock has an SSA of 86 ft2/ft3 and a bed porosity of 20%

    For comparison I found this reference
    gravel (40–70 mm,speci?c surface area of 700 m 2  /  m 3 and bed porosity of 0.4)and a LECA with the commercial name of Filtralite NR(4–8 mm, speci?c surface area of 1250 m 2  /  m 3 and bedporosity of 0.45).
    I converted that to inches and feet.
    1.5-2.5 inch gravel has an SSA of 213 ft2/ft3 and bed porosity of 40%
    1/8–3/8 inch LECA has an SSA of 318 ft2/ft3 and bed porosity of 45%).

    Some of these figures do not seem to jive...  It may be that the 2 gravel was not ordinary drain rock.

    Nate Storie showing specifications for Sand, Pea Gravel, 3/4" Rock, 1" River Rock and his Zip Tower Media
    http://youtu.be/EKGiXoJMLbo



    Radial Filters are inexpensive to build, extremely efficient, and offer the side benefit of capturing fry before they are eaten. To grow healthy plants we must keep the roots clean, and the radial filter will do a better job. There are many versions of radial filters on the internet, but the principal is pretty basic, and easy to understand. A radial filter will remove most of the detritus by slowing the water down, and allowing it to settle to the bottom of the radial filter, thus keeping your DWC raft beds, and media beds as clean as they need to be.

    Basic radial filter
    There have been quite a few other types of filters tested, but any attempt to use filter pads will create a lot of extra work, and jeopardize the clear flow of water if you forget to clean it. Depending on the size of your filter you will be married to that chore more often than you like.

    I only do this when my fish have babies, but occasionally I will place a filter inside my radial filter on the exit pipe in order to save the fry that get sucked in. I can then move them to a safe tank until they grow a bit larger.

    Cycling
    One of the biggest blunders newbies make is to buy fish before the system is cycled.  Cycling involves growing bacterial (nitrification) which will naturally find their way into a aquaponic system.  There is no need to buy this bacteria, and every product I have ever used did absolutely nothing.  This includes products claiming to have several bacteria strains, and those claiming to have special enzymes.  Nitrification takes a minimum of three weeks, and as your system ages this process will mature and get even better.
    There is only one way to speed the process.  You can obtain a fresh bucket of media from an established system and add it to yours.  Water from an established system will not work.  To feed and grow the nitrifying  bacteria simply add enough urine to maintain the ammonia at about 0.5 - 1.00 ppm more or less, and let the water flow through the media and it will begin to grow.
    There is possibly one other way to quickly establish nitrification, but I have never tried this.

    Nitrifying bacteria live on surfaces therefore a high  BSA is good.  Nitrification is a process where bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite and other bacteria convert nitrite to nitrate.  This is a two-step oxidation process of ammonium (NH4+ or ammonia NH3) to nitrite (NO2-) then to nitrate (NO3-) .  During the cycling process do not adjust your pH unless it falls below pH 7.  The bacteria prefer a higher pH.  The pH can be adjusted later when the bacteria have become established.  It is this nitrification process that removes the ammonia and nitrites from the water and creates a clean healthy environment for your fish.  Without it you will be doing several water changes per day of burying dead fish.

    Nitrogen is a key component of aquaponics.  We add protein in the form of fish food and that breaks down into nitrogen for our plants.  For most of us this is all we need to know, but if you wish to crunch numbers and maximize the use of nitrogen then I suggest Commercial System Design – Nitrogen Budget. Paul Van der Wolf explains the entire cycle in depth. 


    The System Build
    Your first system will probably be done as inexpensively as possible, and you may be temped to try some of your own ideas. I can tell you from experience that your tanks need to be sturdy, thin enough to accept a Uniseal or bulkhead, and of a material that will not rot from constant exposure to water which I guarantee you will spill plenty.
    Concrete may seem like a good choice, but only if it is sealed. The problem with concrete is that it will affect the pH and if you continually force the pH down to an acceptable level the concrete will also weaken and crumble. There are ways to seal it with pool paint or wax, but its is probably better the just avoid it.

    Wood Tanks will rot if water accidentally gets under the liner. I have successfully [built wood tanks using fiberglass], but in the end this was more expensive than a good solid agriculture stock tank which can generally be picked up for about $1/gallon.
    .  
    These bunk feeders make good DWC Raft beds and the stock tanks are perfect for fish tanks
    The advantage to building your own tanks is you get to make them exactly the size and shape you wish.

    International Bulk Containers (IBC) and plastic drums also make very good tanks, and the size is appropriate to most backyard systems. But I like a fish tank that I can reach my hand to the bottom of so you may want to cut your container down just a little.

    Drums are often free, so it is an ideal way to start. Some people like them well enough to stay with them. I like the way Justin has built his grow bed using 1/2 drums because there is no frame below the drums, but I would have added a support leg in the center or used 2x12. By the way a barrel has a removable lid a drum has two bungs.

    Bell Siphons work while the flow remains within the parameters they were designed for, and as soon as something changes they will fail. As much as I enjoy listening to a bell siphon cycle through its phases; and even though Im the guy who came up with the idea to use a small reservoir at the end of a breather tube, I will never use another bell siphon on any system I build. The reservoir helps, but its a Band-aid fix. Why bother with a bell siphon when there are better solutions.

    Timed Fill and Drain are a better choice and they conserve energy. Running a 100W pump 24/7 uses 2.4KW per day 365 days a year. A 15 minutes on 4 hours off cycle consumes 16 times less power than a continuous run bell siphon system! I do not believe turning a pump on and off shortens the life of a pump, but everyone can have an opinion.

    Media beds traditionally use a Bell Siphon, but a Timed Fill and Drain system will use less energy and run with far fewer problems.

    Timed Fill and Drain systems use a small weep hole which allows the media beds to drain more slowly than they are filled. A stand pipe allows any excess water to overflow back into the sump tank until a timer turns the pump off. The beds are filled several times a day, and when the pump shuts off, the water weeps out and drains the media bed.

    Old School Fill & Drain
    I dont know if this siphon valve has a name or how well it works, but I first saw it in Travis Hugheys Barrel-Ponic Manual. It works by pulling a toilet flapper with the weight of a 2 litter bottle. Just giving you all the options.

    Air Pumps
    Im running my air pump to 9 air stones and moving over 1000 gpm with 2 airlifts. Im using all the air (200 lpm) my Eco Plus 7 compressor can deliver. It runs at 93W wide open and 51W when closed.
    The specs say an Eco Plus 7 compressor is rated at 200 lpm 5.1 psi and 280W. I believe the 280W rating refers to the maximum heat dissipation the motor coils can endure. Ive rebuilt Active Aqua air pumps and Ive looked inside this Eco Plus 7 and found the Active Aqua to have less space within the enclosure. After I could no longer rebuild my Active Aqua I bought the Eco Plus. My feeling is that Eco Plus has created a larger cooling area that allows the pump to operate much cooler and last longer. I could not pick my Active Aqua 70 lpm up with bare hands whereas the Eco Plus 200 lpm is only warm.
     

    Ive done a similar test with my Ametek Rotron EG DR083 regenerative blower and found that restricting the outflow increases the Wattage, contrary to the compressor. The regenerative blower is great for air stones where the depth is usually pretty shallow. It delivers 521 liters per minute and uses just 118W, but the compressors advantage is the ability to deliver 5.1 psi. The regenerative blower has only 0.867 psi. So the regenerative blower does not work well for airlift pumps but it blows a hell of a lot of air to air stones!


    Airlift Pumps 
    Air stones are highly recommended throughout any system and since we are running an air pump why not utilize it for pumping water too? Thats right airlift pumps will move large quantities of water on less power, and aerate the water while doing so.

    One of the really nice things about airlift pumps is the way they can pass solids without clogging. They are in my opinion far more reliable than centrifugal pumps, and a whole lot less expensive. My airlift can be built for less then $10 and it delivers over 1000gph.

    Electric Pumps - If you purchase an electric pump there are some considerations. To keep this paper short (lol) Ill insert a [Link Here]

    CHOP 1 vs CHOP 2
    CHOP (Constant Height One Pump) Traditional Aquaponics uses either a CHOP 1 or a CHOP 2 design. The water level in the fish tank is always a constant height and one pump delivers water to the fish tank which overflows into the media beds and then back to the sump tank. Chop 2 differs by one pump delivering water to both the fish tank and the media beds. These each return water back to the sump tank. The advantage of CHOP 1 is greater flow through the fish tank. The advantage of CHOP 2 is the ability to isolate the media beds and the fish tank. These traditional systems aerate the water by drawing air down through the media each time the water level fills and drains.

    Level Systems
    There seems to be some misconception that fill and drain action is required for good aeration.  This is simply not true.  There are several methods to aerate water.   

    Air stones, with an air pump are generally used in any type of aquaponic system  I highly recommend many air stones throughout the system, and air lift pumps definitely ensure good aeration.

    Level systems do not waste energy lifting water from a sump tank.  Instead the water is simply pushed along through the system, remaining the same height from one section to the next.  The air lift pump, and air stones provide all the aeration necessary for good healthy roots.

    This of course does leave the roots sitting in water in the media beds, but so do raft systems.  There may be a few plants that dont appreciate constantly wet roots, but most do fine.   Media beds have been included in every successful aquaponics system since day one,  but a new concept has evolved which integrates wicking beds with aquaponics.  Its called Earthan Beds, and Ill tell you more about that later.



    Flow Rate - Kieth Tatjana recommends twice per hour, but no more. The Aquaponic Gardening Community site recommends once per hour. So if you have a 100 gallon fish tank you should pump 100 to 200 gallons per hour. These rules of thumb are good enough, but if you are designing a commercial system then I would refer you to "Why Flow Rates are Critical in Aquaculture" written by Paul Van der Werf.


    Fish are such a wide topic. My advice is grow what you like to eat, or grow what you like to look at, but dont grow what does not belong in your neck of the woods.
    Tilapia in Maine is going to require heating the system, and take it from someone who has been there, it gets expensive. Catfish, are a good all around fish, but even though they can survive, they will stop growing during the cold days of winter. If you live in Florida or Hawaii you might like to grow tilapia, but even in Florida the winter will require some heat.
    The nice thing about Tilapia is they grow pretty quick, they are hardy, and they reproduce well, but catfish kept in a warm water tank will also fulfill these qualities. If you live in a very warm climate, go for it. But most of us will be better off with a local fish that is acclimated to our area. Perch, Blue Gil and even trout are being raised in cool climates.

    Larger systems are more stable, but start small. A 100 gallon tank with about 16 lbs of fish and 16 sq ft of garden is a very nice system. You can expand the grow bed on that system a little, and stock the fish a little heavier, but for starters its best to keep a light fish load.

    Breeding Fish - I have found that fish will breed without my intervention. But some like to identify the males and females and place one male among several females. Sexing fish is not easy, but Robb Nash has a good method in his link. Once the fry are available it is a good idea to separate them so they will not be eaten.

    Compassionate Killing of Fish

    Inhumane and totally unacceptable slaughter methods, that can take a long time for
    fish to lose consciousness and die, should be prohibited urgently. These include
    suffocating fish in air or on ice, bleeding to death without pre-stunning, and the use of
    carbon dioxide for stunning.

    Only slaughter methods that cause an instant death or render the fish instantly
    insensible to pain until dead should be permitted. These include percussive stunning
    techniques whereby fish are rendered instantly unconscious when carried out
    efficiently.

    I use a 1" dowel about 16" long to club my fish. The easiest way Ive found is to hold the fish in the net so that they dont slide out of your grasp. Wait a moment until they settle down and make one swift blow to the top of the head. Death is instantaneous. There is no suffering, no blood, its just a good clean kill.

    Fish Food can be a major expense if you dont find a good source. I buy mine at Tractor Supply where I get 50lbs for $18.00. The important thing is to look for about 32% or better protein. For your fry you may wish to buy a more expensive product with higher protein. Some foods will leave a lot of detritus so you may want to experiment. How much and how often you feed your fish depends on temperature. They will not eat as much when cold. Under ideal conditions you might expect to feed your fish about 1.2% of their body weight. I like to watch them feed and if
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